San Francisco! Where the streets are paved with tofu, the buildings stuccoed with soy! Where the air has fewer calories and the water better equity! Whose denizens are fitness-crazed half-man/half-cellphone cyborgs, fusion-fueled by Super Burritos and Wi-Fi Chai! Where the sidewalks are soft with lounging hippie bodies in perpetual Learyan tune-in! Where the skies are dark with real-estate buzzards hovering in hunger for the next great quake! Where the wine bars, espresso salons, and hipster haunts are airtight with healthy, wealthy metrosexual youth who never stop snickering at people’s reverence for New York! Where all conceivable races, colors, creeds, faiths, nationalities, sexualities, generations, classes, and faculty ranks live 100% side-by-side in rainbow-brite utopian splendor! Where every other restaurant is a taqueria churning out girthy burritos the size of Yule logs, mortared with organically seasoned free-range beast by-product sunken in grand glops of tangy hydroponic filler paste and monsooned with sauce that will shock the flesh from your bones! Where the hills careen vertiginously up and down in homage to the tech-stock portfolios of yore, for the entertainment of tourists and the swift and disastrous erosion of brake shoes! Where the Muni buses’ gnarled cobweb of crisscrossing power cables blocks out the very sky! Where the BART trains howl metallically in protest as they clank and trundle back and forth under the bay! Where the aspiring best minds of the post-Beat generations hit innumerable open-mic nights wishing to god someone could see them destroyed by madness, starving hysterical naked or not! Where the famous fog billows ferociously in from the ocean — pouring like mushroom cloud smoke at high speed down the streets, erasing the terrible red towers of the Golden Gate, on a dime plunging the city into damp gloomy Londonian refrigeration — as if striving to outdo the manmade political fog that has been rolling in from the east this whole past half decade! // The other week I went there, to SF, having never been, and am relieved to have gotten it out of the way.
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- The twenty-eight years and eleven months of American life somehow spent without ever once entering the state of California.
- The three hours gained during the eight hours flying out.
- The two-hour layover in Las Vegas, during which I ate an unbelievable burrito and tried unsuccessfully to find refuge from the unceasing raygun sounds of the airport slot machines.
- The century-and-a-quarter between now and when the book I was reading during my flights was written. (Twain’s A Tramp Abroad.)
- The four weekdays of subtly disorienting double-time-zone existence in SF, telecommuting on East Coast hours with a Pacific-time sun shining through the window. (Online at 6:30am. Lunch at 10am. Quit at 2:30. Dinner at 3. A Pacific second dinner at some point later. Sack out at midnight sharp.)
- The brief time-travel back to the seventies, eighties, and mid-nineties courtesy of the surreal spectacle of a club full of indie-rock scenesters singing lustily along with Mike Doughty’s winking cover versions of “The Gambler”, “Hungry Like the Wolf”, “Paradise City”, and a few folkified (and sadly de-funkified) Soul Coughing tunes.
- The uncountable centuries of slow upward and outward growth experienced by the dizzying giant redwood trees that pillared and canopied our hike through Muir Woods and most of the way up Mount Tamalpais.
- The hour I overslept on the morning of my 10:55am flight home, thus denying myself time for breakfast and seeing to it that the first meal of my day would be a sandwich at Chicago O’Hare at 5:30pm Central.
- The six hundred years between now and when the book I was reading on my return flights may have been written. (Sir Gawain and the Green Knight, circa late fourteenth century.)
- The three hours lost during the seven-and-a-half hours flying back.
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I annihilated my feet on the first day thanks to my making the mistake of wearing Chuck Taylors instead of good comfortable walking sneakers during the pedestrian tour of the city my brother and I undertook all afternoon. I seem to make this mistake a little too often. Out-of-shape feet crossed with poor memory recall regarding the necessity of sensible shoes. No doubt my feet would’ve ached no matter what I wore, but the Chucks were disasters; I would’ve gotten better arch support by strapping a slice of Wonder Bread to either foot.
The only other footwear I’d brought along were: 1) a pair of new Doc Marten boots, whose stiff shiny leather was not even close to being broken in; and 2) a pair of ratty disintegrating old hiking boots that I bought for cheap in some mall before I knew better and hadn’t worn since like the Clinton administration (pre-Lewinsky), and which boots had spent probably three or so years in the trunk of my car being repeatedly roasted and frozen at length with the passing seasons.
For my after-work afternoon/evening walking excursions, arranged beforehand, I stuck with the Docs, since they at least offered some palpable support and cushioning; I dulled the new leather’s Achilles-heel-chewing torment with Tylenol. My left foot was not so bad off, but the right foot enjoyed nuclear shooting pain with each step. So on Monday I limped from the Panhandle down to the Mission; on Tuesday I limped around Berkeley; on Wednesday and Thursday I limped around Oakland; on Thursday and Friday nights I limped around San Francisco some more; all day Friday I limped up and down Mt. Tam in those horrid old hiking boots, then left their remains with my brother to dispose of; Saturday I staggered around three airports on shredded gore-spuming ankle stumps.
I am writing myself a note here, for the next time I travel: SENSIBLE SHOES! SENSIBLE SHOES! SENSIBLE SHOES! Don’t let me forget it.
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50% of this forest is not upright.
Four hours in SF and already I am eating tofu.
The kneeling bus.
The guru of Vietnamese sandwiches.
Imminent ocelots.
Today’s special: whale lard.
I eat only things that hatch.
Even platypuses?
It’s been your pleasure having the three of us aboard.
Beware the wild water pipe.
Chianti by Machiavelli.
Teeth in my pasta.
Clif Bar.
What’d you do in California?
Went to Berkeley and talked about TV!
I think that person just fell out of a plane.
Town, city of gleaming spires! People live here!
Cemetery secondhand smoke.
BART trains’ sketchy easy-chair seat cushions.
The infuriating Dustbuster whine of the accelerating Muni bus.
Driven to tears by a curry crepe.
And I tried to tell you before.
That that’s why I left California.
The name of my band is the name of my name.
He’s Popeye!
This is the girl.
It’s famous for you.
Even my dog done made a fool outta me.