Our aforementioned all-night overnight flight is two flights. A short leg and a long leg. SFO → LAX (one hour), then LAX → YYZ (four hours plus three time-zone hours).
The long leg’s plane is not even half full, so most of the passengers move to their own row and stretch out across all three seats and go to sleep. The flight crew turns off the cabin lights, but they leave on the lurid purple-and-pink ceiling accent lights that are evidently part of the Virgin America brand. This dim purple-and-pink overhead glow gives the otherwise darkened cabin a surreal, dreamlike, pimped-out neon-lined Candyland appearance somewhere between sci-fi nightclub and fairground funhouse. All up and down the cabin, the walls and ceilings flicker intermittently with spectral reflections from the few in-seat TV screens that haven’t been shut off.
Laura moves to her own row and sleeps. I try to sleep for a little bit but mostly stay up and read. A few times I glance around the cabin and see that no one except me has their overhead reading light turned on. And so many people are lying down that no tops of heads are visible. I am left with the disquieting sensation that I’m the only passenger on the plane, and am stuck under a tiny weird spotlight. The nighttime view out the windows shows great bursts of constellations, calm flat oceans of dimly visible moonlit clouds, luminous cobwebbish patterns of cities creeping by on the ground, and, once, the bright white downward vertical streak of what is either a shooting star or a satellite whose warranty is up.
We land in Toronto at seven on Saturday morning. Customs is cake. We wrestle our luggage (some of which bears Virgin America’s angry red HEAVY tag, shown above) into the ice-cold Yaris and start sleepily speeding home to Hamilton. En route we stop for a bad diner breakfast to bring us back to Hamiltonian reality after all those fancy-pants California breakfasts. Once home at the Hotel Fantod we do brief battle with a sadistic screaming smoke detector that is demanding a new battery, and once true silence descends we then collapse into bed from something like ten until half past three in the afternoon. Upon waking we do our best to eradicate our remaining jetlag and post-vacation blues with cheap Australian wine, cheaper Italian comfort food, and a viewing of Gone With the Wind, which incidentally at 233 minutes is pretty much the same length as our flight’s long leg. Tomorrow is another day.







